that kind of fall

October 27, 2010 10 Comments by Maddie

I suppose it’s strange to be talking about tomatoes in late October, right? But then again, it’s strange to still be seeing tomatoes in late October. And not, mind you, the ones usually airlifted to Virginia in December from exotic lands, but rather the locally-grown kind, laid out in neat rows on farmers’ market tables. It’s just been that kind of summer, bleeding into that kind of fall: where the warmth doesn’t want to stop hanging in the air at night, and every coat-appropriate day is matched with a sunny, borderline humid one.

And that’s okay by me. That means more blissful trips to Shenandoah National Park, drifting among the fiery leaves without the burden of gloves or a scarf. It means more Sunday nights in October dedicated to after-dinner strolls, some of which lead you to the swinging screen doors of hipster-run pie shops in newly-gentrified parts of your city. And, of course, it means fresh tomato sauce for a whole entire month longer than you’d reckoned to be blessed with.


The magic of this particular sauce lies in its flexibility. If you’re still seeing fresh tomatoes at the market, well, by all means thank your lucky stars and use them. If not? Good canned tomatoes are what this recipe originally called for, anyway; an unexpected hit of lemon zest will make sure you’ve got “fresh” covered. You can add a glug of cream, like we did with our batch, and use it to cradle tiny pillows of gnocchi, or layer it unadorned with lasagna noodles. Whatever you do, though, make sure to get outside after dinner and marvel at this warm October, with all the leaf-peeping and coat-scorning that entails.

(Before you head out, though, can we take one more look at that first photo? As good as late-season tomatoes are for sauce purposes, I feel a deep sense of nostalgia for those mid-summer ones from my CSA—probably the first fantastic ones I’d ever tasted—which were clothed in yellow dresses but hid red lingerie underneath.)

Here’s to you, seasonal confusion.


EASY TOMATO SAUCE
Serves 4
Adapted from 101 Cookbooks

Ingredients
- 1/4 cup good olive oil
- tomatoes—either a single 28-ounce can of plain crushed ones, or ten medium fresh ones
- 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
- 1/2 tsp. sea salt
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- zest of one lemon

Preparation
1) If using fresh tomatoes, slice each in half. Scoop out, then discard, seeds; dice the remaining tomato flesh. If using canned ones, well, just open the can.
2) In a medium saucepan, combine olive oil, red pepper flakes, salt and garlic. Turn on the heat and stir mixture as it cooks gently, adding the tomatoes just before the garlic begins to brown. Bring everything to a simmer.
3) If using canned tomatoes, the sauce will be ready in just 5 minutes; at that point, add lemon zest and extra salt, if needed. With fresh tomatoes, wait until the sauce cooks down to your desired consistency as you gently break up the diced bits of tomato, then stir in zest. Enjoy!

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  • http://happyjackeats.blogspot.com Jacqui

    We’ve had a warm October here in Chicago, too, but this week there were strong wind storms that blew away all the leaves. There’s nothing worse than naked trees: a stark warning of the cold winter ahead. I’m glad you have this fresh tomato sauce to help you hang on to fall. :)

  • http://emmainthekitchen.blogspot.com/ Emma

    Nice work with finding those gorgeous tomatoes! I just love a good, home made pasta sauce, there’s nothing quite like it.

  • http://janaemonir.wordpress.com Janae

    What beautiful tomatoes! They made such a beautifully colored sauce, too. I usually prefer canned tomatoes because they are consistent in flavor and texture, but fresh just can’t be beat, especially when they are such gorgeous colors. I’m sure it tasted as good as it looked!

  • http://www.alittleginger.com Maddie

    Jacqui — There’s nothing sadder than the moment when all the beautiful autumn leaves are blown away. I’m sorry for your loss! This weekend, I’m going to take gratuitous pictures of colored leaves before the same thing happens in Virginia.

    Emma — Thanks! Despite having parents who made great homemade pasta sauces when I was a kid, I only recently kicked a jarred-sauce habit acquired during college…but making your own makes a big difference, doesn’t it?

    Janae — You’re totally right about the consistent nature of canned tomatoes…but I couldn’t resist fresh ones, with that rainbow of colors! (Can you tell I really, really, miss my summer CSA?)

  • http://amusebouchefortwo.blogspot.com Tracy

    I always miss tomatoes this time of year. I could eat them every day. We make sauce (now from canned San Marzano’s) at least twice a week. Very much enjoying seasonal confusion today.

  • http://comosolo.wordpress.com/ Debs

    Lemon zest in tomato sauce, GENIUS! I thought I put the damn stuff in everything possible, how could I have missed this??? I might try marrying this to that Marcella Hazan recipe that calls for a whole brick of butter…

  • http://IslandEAT.wordpress.com IslandEAT

    Hi, Maddie. I almost had forgotten about this recipe I’d saved from Heidi’s site, so I was glad you reminded me. After a few weeks in the lands of kilts and cuppas, I enjoyed catching up on your posts (and I feel the same about my sudden, intense latke-cravings mid-December, as the only vaguely religious ritual in which I’ll participate…).

    Thanks,

    Dan

  • http://www.myliferunsonfood.com Sanura

    In the last CSA share, I was a little surprise to see green tomatoes.

  • http://everybodylikessandwiches.com kickpleat

    Now I’m going to add lemon zest to my next tomato sauce, as it sounds divine! Your tomatoes look beautiful and I’m very jealous :)

  • http://www.alittleginger.com Maddie

    Hi, Tracy—thanks for visiting! Sounds like you’ve got off-season sauce-making down to a science…San Marzanos are lovely.

    Debs — Ooh, great idea. Is that recipe as fantastic as I’ve heard? Because it’s next on my list to try. (After paella from my Spanish care-package ingredients, of course. :) )

    Dan — Are you talking Scotland? That sounds like a fantastic vacation. Hope to hear more soon, and have fun re-acclimating to home-cooked meals!

    Sanura — How cool that you have a fall CSA. No reason for the fun to stop in September, right?

    kickpleat — Why thank you! And do try some lemon zest…I was skeptical of the idea at first, but it’s really pitch-perfect with the tomatoes.